I’ve been wanting to cover the middle section of my workshop cabinets with sliding doors. I really don’t like how chaotic the visible storage looks. Other than the visual appeal, cabinet doors don’t serve any function besides keeping some dust out of the cabinet. So they haven’t been a high priority on my mile long to-do list. Until now. Since I’m finally investing some real thought, time and energy into revamping my shop, I finally built some sliding cabinet doors for my workshop.
Track for sliding doors
After experimenting a little with a DIY track, I decided a simple solution would be a simple bypass closet door hardware kit.
I bought two 72″ hardware kits for $20 each. There isn’t one track long enough to fit all the way across my cabinets so I got two. I wanted the seam right in the middle so I cut a bit off each one one with my reciprocating saw. 
I didn’t want my doors rubbing against my cabinet faceframes so I attached a strip of 1/4″ plywood at the top and bottom rails.
There is a joist right above the front edge of these upper cabinets so I butted a 2×4 up right against the front of the cabinets and drove 3″ screws in at an angle in order to secure it to the joist. 
The 2×4 is there to give me something to mount the rail onto as I didn’t want to rely on anchor screws. 
Cut door panels
After installing the track, I determined the approximate height for the doors. I got four doors out of two sheets of 1/2″ plywood.
Most of the cabinetry in my workshop is painted grey and I wanted to tie that in with some natural wood. I decided to paint the “panel” portion of the doors grey and frame them in wood. It’s not just grey paint though, it’s chalkboard paint. I thought writing on the chalkboard would be a fun way to remind myself of what’s inside each cabinet.
Frame the sliding cabinet doors
I framed the panels with the 1/4″ plywood I had left over after cutting out my four door panels.
- cut some 1/4″ plywood into strips
- most of the strips are 2 1/2″
- cut some additional strips at 5″ for the top rails.
I applied a couple coats of polyurethane before attaching them to the door panel since I’d already painted the panel. Put them together and boom– done. That was the plan.
I used glue and my DeWalt cordless nailer to attach the strips to the panel, starting with the sides (stiles).
Then I attached the 5″ top rail. I made the top rail wider since the door rollers will be attached to the top of the doors and I’ll be hiding the rollers and…you’ll see, stick with me…
I determined the space in between my “rails” and cut a scrap of wood to that length. Then used that scrap to quickly space my rails on all four sliding doors without having to measure and mark each one.
Done! That was easy and for my workshop — it’ll do!
Sand and finish
I didn’t cover the edges with banding or edging. Just sanded them good and smooth.
Filled all my nail holes. I used my favorite wood putty. The stuff is awesome!
However the wood patch was visible because I’d already polyurethaned the strips. So I grabbed a rag and wiped on some gel stain to even out the color carefully trying to wipe the wood and NOT the painted panels.
Install sliding door hardware
I used a combination square to quickly locate each roller 4″ from the door edge.
I predrilled and secured each roller with #6 5/8″ wood screws.
To install the rollers into the sliding door track, the door has to be tilted out slightly. Then the weight of the door keeps the rollers in the track.
Lastly, hid the track and rollers by creating a cornice. I simply attached a strip of 1/4″ plywood to the front of the wood above the track.
Inside view of the cornice. I had to remove some of my trim to install these sliding cabinet doors. I’ll have to install crown molding again at some point. Though that is not currently high up on my to-do list.
I like looking at these sliding doors so much more than the stuff IN the cabinets!
And they slide really smoothly on this closet door hardware so it’s easy to get to what I need when I need it.
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Sarah says
Way to go, they look great!
kim massa says
they do look great. Thanks for the instructions. I bet I use them someday.
Sandra says
Thanks Kim.
NELLIE says
I like. The gray and wood makes doors look like frosted glass.
Gwen says
The doors look great – I agree with Nellie, gives the impression of frosted glass. Thank you for the tutorial. I bet I can do it too after reading this.
Jonathan says
That looks really sharp! Looks better than my kitchen!
Lisa says
Nice job! This is a very helpful pictorial for me, and I am grateful you took the time to post it. I am in the planning stages of a cupboard using this exact same sliding door hardware. I’ll have the lumber store pre-cut the plywood for me so I wonder if you can answer a question: What is the measurement from the under side of the 2×4 that the rail is screwed to, to the top of the sliding door? I could guesstimate at a couple of inches, but exactitude would be much better. Thanks for your help!
Sandra says
I recommend installing your track first. Then you can insert the roller and measure down. That way you get the correct measurement for your specific project rather than relying on mine. You never know when a manufacturer makes a slight change to their product design so it’s always best to take your own measurements for hardware.
frank d says
I may like to do this for my next set of sliding doors, for a two thirds height under even closet (vs the store bought plain slabs, cut down)
Which kind of plywood did you use?
Since plywood tends to ply, even come pre-warped from being stacked oddly in the big box store …
Jay says
Great instructions. Quick question. Did plywood worped at all? I will be building 8 foot tall doors, 30” wide and I was wondering about using plywood or create fame from 1×3 and insert plywood panels.
Thanks in advance
Jay
Ann says
I wonder too about if the plywood warps?
Trent Wilms says
So, do you find any advantage to the sliding vs. hinged doors?
donna says
you’re fricken awesome! Want to do this too!
Carlee says
I’m wondering if the hardware went smoothly and how the door mounted.
Teresa Kirkland says
Great idea using the chalkboard paint. If you decide to move stuff around you can easily relabel.
Vanessa says
This is a great idea, I love that you have a shop and had time to fix it up.
I am a beginner DIYer – as in I read a lot of ideas and have yet to actually build anything. This project is the closest to what I am trying to do that I found so far. I know you did the post a while back and may not remember but I only just found it.
It looks like you have 4 doors, but what is the entire length of the cabinets? Wondering if this can be improvised as I am looking to do rolling/sliding doors of some sort, 4 of them. The wall is 141.5″ long (and it is a nook so that is useful for the sides having support) I want to have a TV in the middle and 2 bookshelves on either side. I need to do 4 doors/panels but to ensure they will all open so I can view the tv , and when not watching tv the shelves can be accessed.
At least I think this is how this plan would work. I would have to get a board that goes across the tv connecting both bookshelves on either side of it to the wall on each end, so that the structure would allow sliding doors. I am just asking if that would be sturdy enough to put the doors all the way across if it is only connected by a board connecting the 2 bookcases. We obviously don’t want doors falling on a tv!
Apologies if any of this sounds silly but as I said brand new DIYer! I have to borrow tools too.
Thank you!
Sandra says
I don’t know that I fully understand the scenario you are describing. I would consider what the “unit” would look like with just a board across the top of the tv area, when the doors are open.
Cary Bryson says
Looks great! How would you do this for a dresser that’s being transformed into a cabinet?
Kate says
This is just what I was looking for. Hoping to convert a bunch of cheap open shelves in my fixer house. thank you!
R. Mark Sampson says
SDG,
Very glad I came across your website/post. Inspired me to finally clean up my garage as this was a perfect weekend project. All other ideas I had would have taken months to execute.
I have a home in a hurricane surge area so the house is elevated and the garage is at ground level with 14 ft cinder block walls. I had previously build three elevated shelves in the garage that were 21 feet long for Christmas and other holiday decoration storage but needed a nice way to cover up the cluttered look. This was perfect.
I gel-stained everything before attaching the 1/4 ply strips to the plywood doors (including the edges). I only needed to edge stain the edge of the door after attaching the 1/4″ strips. I also made extra strips for the header – and made a footer too. The footer keeps the doors from swinging around. It was simple to add – I nailed in a 2″x6″ board under the bottom shelf letting it stick out 3″ under the rolling doors. The extra 1/4″ strips were then brad-nailed at the bottom that overlap the bottom of the rolling doors. I cut/stained more 1/4″ ply to cover up the bottom of the 2″x6″ board. I used some small felt pads as spacers within the footer. I also used a water-based polyurethane to seal everything. It made for a very polished/finish look.