Moving on to Way 2 out of my three ways to build a cabinet, the fastest and easiest method is with Butt Joints and Wood Screws. Pocket holes allow you to attach your cabinet bottom, fixed shelves and cleats without having fasteners visible on the cabinet sides. You will, however, still see the cabinet back from the side. This post shows a different way to build the same 34 1/2″ tall Cabinet that is 24″ wide. You can modify this plan to build cabinets of different widths. Refer to my post on Cabinet Building Basics for additional information, tips and techniques.
How to build a cabinet using pocket hole screws
The final dimensions of this cabinet after the back and face frame are attached will be 24″ but the sides, bottom and shelves are 23″ deep. The height is 34 1/2″ tall. The toe kick is 3″ deep by 4″ tall cut out of the sides with a jigsaw. The cabinet material is 3/4″ thick.
Step 1: Drill pocket holes
- Use a Kreg Jig (or other brand pocket hole jig) to drill pocket holes into the cabinet bottom.
- Refer to my post on Cabinet Building Basics for additional information on spacing.
Step 2: Attach bottom to sides
- Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
- Pay close attention to the location of the “bottom”. It will be flush with the bottom rail in the face frame once that is installed
Step 3: Attach top cleats
You can use a full top if your situation calls for it. If you are covering the cabinet with a countertop there is no need to use the extra material.
- Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step 4: Attach back cleat
This is what you will use to secure the cabinet to the wall after everything is all leveled. Drive 3″ cabinet screws through this cleat into the studs.
- Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Alternate Step 3 and 4: Attach top and back cleats
- If you do not want the back panel to be visible from the sides, you could set the back two cleats 1/4″ in from the cabinet back leaving room for the back panel to recess.
- If you did this, I would also shorten the cabinet bottom by 1/4″ so the back panel could recess in front of that.
- I don’t do this because I want the back to be stapled all the way around on the back so it keeps the cabinet in square. I don’t think it would do as good a job at this if it’s just attached on the top and bottom and resting against both sides. (But it IS an option if you don’t have the tools to cut a dado. Sometimes you have to choose the best of your available options.)
Step 5: Attach back
- Square up your cabinet first
- Use 3/4″-1 1/2″ staples or small screws.
Step 6: Build and Attach Faceframe
I have shown six different methods to attach a faceframe to a cabinet in this tutorial. You will want to choose a method that fits your installation situation, depending on the tools you have access to.
Step 7: Nail a “kick plate” onto the recessed toe kick.
- I find it’s easiest to paint this before installing
That’s how easy it is to use a pocket hole jig to build a cabinet so your fasteners are not visible on the sides of your cabinets. Don’t have a pocket hole jig? You can build this same cabinet using wood screws.
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Im soaking up all of this knowledge.
Yeah! 🙂
So pleasantly surprised to see you posting, Sandra!
Thanks so much for taking the time to add these step-by-step How To’s. I have checked out no less than 16 cabinet-making/ wood working books from the local library in the last few weeks, trying to get a feel for this. But, This is the furniture capital of the world (Thomasville/High Point), and the texts on hand tend to lean technical, assume a far amount of “common” knowledge, and employ advanced techniques. (Stair saws, chisels, and dado planes… oh my!) It was so nice to swing by and see… this! Yay! Thanks for sharing.
Hope the recovery is going well! Wishing you the best! Renee 🙂
Thank you so much Renee. I’m getting stronger and feeling better each day. Thank you for letting me know that this info is useful too. I REALLY appreciate knowing that someone is getting something from the effort. 🙂
In step 6 you say there are several options lot consider when making and installing the face frame, but you don’t elaborate on them. Please explain
Sorry Ed, it’s a whole separate post with lots of pictures too. The info applies to all three cabinet building tutorials. It’s a lot of info and would make each tutorial too long to include in each. Check back Thursday.
Good tutorial but you left out some of the important information, and most often asked questions with regard to cabinet building, by skipping step 6. Yes there are several methods, just post the one you use.
The Faceframe tutorial I linked to in this post includes six different ways to attach a faceframe. Because not everyone has access to the same tools and every cabinet installation situation is different, there is not “one” way that would work for everyone, which is why I provided a separate tutorial with lots of different options. It’s just a click away. 🙂 https://sawdustgirl.com/how-to-build-and-attach-a-cabinet-faceframe/
And how are the faveframes attached to the cabinets?
I linked to a whole “Faceframe tutorial” post which includes six different ways to attach a faceframe. Because not everyone has access to the same tools and every cabinet installation situation is different, there is not “one” way that would work for everyone, which is why I provided a separate tutorial with lots of different options. It’s just a click away. 🙂 https://sawdustgirl.com/how-to-build-and-attach-a-cabinet-faceframe/
Can you fix drawers to yhese cabinets what material do you use and can you put adjusters on the bottom.