A very important part of cabinet building is squaring up. It’s difficult to KEEP a cabinet square if you don’t put a back on after you square up. When I build a cabinet that has hidden sides, I just staple the cabinet back directly ON the back.
This is what I do and it’s what I have my clients do. If I’m painting the cabinet, I use 1/4″ hardboard. Funny thing, almost every single client has come back with the same response to my cut list: “What the heck is hardboard?”
It’s the ugly brown masonite stuff that comes in 4’x8′ sheets in the lumber section. It looks like this. It comes in 1/8″ and 1/4″. I couldn’t get up on a ladder to take a picture of the 1/4″ stuff so use your imagination on the label.
That’s your helpful informative tidbit for the week. 🙂
Have a great weekend!
Camille says
Well, my honey did that just this week. I wanted plywood to match the cabinets, he said no. After we got them in, looked just fine! Excellent tip!
Sandra says
Hardboard is definitely much cheaper than plywood…which is why I like it. 🙂
Korrie@RedHenHome says
I have also found it in 3/8″ thickness at our Lowe’s. I have used it for drawer bottoms and homemade chalkboards as well!
Sandra says
Yeah, it’s nice and smooth. Perfect for chalkboards.
Tina says
Easiest way I’ve used to describe hardboard, is it’s pretty much the same material that clipboards are made out of.
Sandra says
…another helpful tidbit.
Linda S says
I had no idea that’s what it is called. Learning, learning, learning.
Sandra says
Masonite or Hardboard. Or if the lumber workers still don’t know what you want, try, “The ugly brown flimsy compressed fiber stuff.” Maybe that is what they call it. haha
Treshia M says
Great idea!! I have 2 bookshelves that I’m putting together with a connecting top ( to make a craft center) should I use hardboard in place of the cardboard back that came with the shelves?
Sandra says
It would probably hold up better. 😉
Treshia M says
Thanks!
Bob says
If you’ve seen pegboard, that is hardboard with holes in it.
Sandra says
Yep, but I certainly don’t want anyone using pegboard for cabinet backs. 🙂
lara thomas says
I am dying…crying and laughing at the same time…I just love this- My life today summed up!
Sandra says
LOL I meant to post this like three weeks ago. Every time I get the same question I get frustrated with myself for being such a procrastinator. Today, I followed through. Yeah me. haha 🙂
Kristen says
Thanks for making the lumber section a little less intimidating for those of us who are newbies! Do you think hardboard would work for a board and batten treatment on the wall – as the board portion? Would it be easy to nail it to the wall, lie flat, and be paintable? I am trying to figure out something that is thin and cheap since I am not as awesome as you to with mad skills to skim coat my walls! Thanks Sandra
Sandra says
I wouldn’t use it for board and battan because it’s only 1/4″ thick and is rough on the back so you would see that if you don’t hide the sides. 1/2″ MDF would probably be a better bet but you have to make sure to sand the sides really well, before and after you prime to get it smooth.
orangesugar says
Do you use this instead of 1/4″ ply because it’s cheaper or for some other reason? Can you paint hardboard?
Sandra says
Yes and yes. It’s very inexpensive and smooth and paints well like MDF.
Sandra says
Most big box home improvement stores or lumber yards.
Terri says
Would you ever use Masonite on the back of a kitchen cabinet without painting it or putting a laminate or veneer on it? IOW, would you ever leave the ugly brown Masonite visible in the cabinet interior?
Sandra says
no