I’m always drawing up plans and have folders and folders full of them. I keep finding old plans for something or other I intended to build but never did. I always think I’ll build it and THEN share the plans and 90% of the time I never end up building said item…so I’m just going to start posting the plans and if I ever get around to building it I’ll share that later. If I don’t build it — at least the time I spent designing plans won’t go to waste and maybe someone else will build and share.
So here’s to a new year of awesome building for all of us!
32″ Double Vanity with Center Drawers
This plan be built as a 32″ tall vanity with undermount sinks OR can be used with vessel sinks for a taller vanity. Double duty!
- 2 -sheets of 3/4″ Cabinet grade plywood cut as shown below.
- 5 -8′ 1×2 poplar for faceframe
- 1- sheet of 1/2″ plywood for drawers
- 1- sheet of 1/4″ plywood or backerboard (smooth)
- door and drawer front material (3/4″ solid wood with applied moulding is the easiest door to make or you can follow my door building tutorial and make rail and style doors)
- Pocket hole jig
- miter saw for faceframe
Supplies: (obviously you can use whatever brand you like — these are the brands I use)
- 1 3/4″ SPAX screws
- 1 1/4″ Kreg pocket hole screws
- Titebond III wood glue
- Secure dividers and sides to bottom with 1 3/4″ SPAX screws.
- attach long cleats to top. Drive two screws into each divider.
-attach back cleats using pocket hole screws.
- secure bottom. This second bottom is going to make this big vanity heavy but will add stability and help distribute the weight of the entire piece onto the bun feet.
-square up by checking the diagonal measurement from top left to bottom right and visa versa. The measurement should be exactly the same. Doesn’t matter what the number is – just make sure it’s the same.
- secure the back with 3/4″ – 1 1/4″ staples or screws.
-Build side face frames our of 1×2 poplar (which is really 3/4″ x 1 1/2″) with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Make sure to adjust size to fit the side of your vanity specifically. It should be flush with the front and back (covering the exposed side of back you just attached).
-attach side face frames with glue and small brad nails.
-Build front face frame making sure the placement of the styles (vertical pieces) are in the correct place for YOUR vanity. Things don’t always turn out exactly like you planned them, even with the best planning so double check your specific dimensions before building your face frame.
-Add countertop and feet. Build your own countertop or buy granite or tile or do concrete… the possibilities are endless.
This hand carved bun foot from CSHardware is $17.
- Build drawers
There are many ways to build a drawer box depending on the tools you have and your level of experience. Build your drawers paying attention to the outside dimensions. This will leave 1/2″ clearance for 22″ drawer glides.
If you don’t have a router table or table saw to cut a dado, you can simply cut the drawer bottom to fit exactly inside the box and glue and screw it together or you can follow my tutorial for building a cabinet drawer with a dado for drawer bottom.
Center top drawer dimensions (build 1)
Center bottom 2 drawer dimensions (build 2)
-Build doors and drawer fronts
-(3/4″ solid wood with applied moulding is the easiest door to make or you can follow my door building tutorial and make rail and style doors)
Dimensions for false fronts and doors for sides.
Dimensions for center drawer fronts
A non mortising butt hinge like this is an easy an inexpensive hinge solution. This one is about 45¢ at DLawlessHardware
It should be all ready to paint up, add hardware and use! Let me know if you build this plan and how it works out for you. I want to see! In fact, share your build pictures with the whole wide world on TheSawdustDiaries!
Tags: Bathroom, Free Plans, Vanity