I’ve used my Kreg Rip-Cut tool a few times now and it’s definitely become a workshop fav. I’ve tried other circular saw cutting guides for ripping sheet goods before with disappointing results. I was skeptical about this one being any better but it turns out — this one is markedly better. It’s not perfect, but it’s a pretty good option for ripping down large sheet goods and making repeated cuts. Kreg Tools sent me a Rip-Cut to try out, I was not compensated for my review. Opinions are my own.
The Rip-Cut gives me accurate cuts, it takes about 15 seconds to adjust for a new cut width, and I don’t have to measure and mark and clamp anything to my wood so the whole process of ripping wood is much faster than with any other method (in my shop).
Bonus: It’s really easy to use! (The instructions are clear — I think they were written by someone that has actually used it. Score one for Kreg Tools. You know bad instruction manuals are one of my biggest pet peeves.)
*Edited 12/2/14 I have had quite a few clients and readers let me know that the Kreg RipCut did not fit onto their circular saw. The product description says “It fits on MOST circular saws…”. SO, be warned, it may not fit on your circular saw. It went onto my Skil brand saw without a hitch. You can contact Kreg Tools to find out if your saw is compatible — or buy it and try it and keep your receipt!
*I have also upgraded to a Festool Track Saw so I donated my circular saw and RipCut to the local Junior High School woodshop class so I no longer use this tool but while I had it, I found it to be useful. If I did not have my track saw, I would purchase an inexpensive circular saw that could stay attached to the ripcut. Removing it to make cuts wider than 24″ and then reattaching it gets old fast.
First – set up for your cut. I have my lumber set up on two sawhorses, a sheet of 3/4″ plywood and a full sheet of foam insulation. This supports the entire sheet of lumber that I am cutting.
1. Attach the Rip-Cut to your circular saw.
2. It has a guide ledge that sits against the wood you are cutting and guides the saw straight through the cut.
3. To adjust your cut width, you just lift this lever and slide down the rail to your new desired position.
Fast and easy: just the way I like to build.
I need a designated circular saw that stays attached and calibrated to the Rip-Cut because I often need to cut over 24″ and then I have to grab a screwdriver to take the Rip-Cut off my circ saw. Then I use my other method of cutting a wider cut (measure, mark, clamp on staight edge, cut) then put the Rip-Cut back on and recalibrate.
It only takes a few minutes to remove it or to put it back on and recalibrate –but I’d rather just have the whole thing ready to use at all times. ‘Cause who has time for fiddle factor? I have a whole 6000 sq ft to remodel by myself! I need to go go go. But carefully, of course. So I don’t have to tear apart what I just built…or spill things on my floor. making more work for myself.
A recurring problem I keep hearing from clients is that they are getting imperfect cuts when they have the lumber store rip their sheet goods. Let’s face it: not everyone in the lumber department actually builds and understands how important it is to have your wood cut at the actual measurement your plans call for.
As long as you are ripping your wood to 24″ wide or less, cutting it at home yourself with a circular saw and Rip-Cut will help you avoid that issue.
Note: It only rips cuts up to 24″ wide so it won’t replace your other guides, clamps, straight edges or whatever other method you use to rip lumber. Or have the lumber store make JUST a few cuts.
I regularly show your blog to my hubby for all the things I want him to build me. I may have to hide this post from him though! I bought him a Kreg Jig for Christmas and let’s just say I may have created a monster! He wants all the Kreg Jig stuff now!
LOL Well, if he’s building you awesome things, he should have all the tools he needs. Right? 🙂
I did not even know this existed!! A friend is loaning me his fabulous, industrial table saw that takes up a fabulous amount of room in my garage/shop. Thanks for posting this!
I have a question as well: have you used the relatively new oscillating multi-tools yet? I am interested in buying one and have checked all sorts of reviews but just can’t decide which would be best for me, a strong, but 46 year old woman. I prefer cordless tools, but am not sure if the loss of velocity with the cordless is great enough to warrant a corded model. Just wondering.
Thanks for any input and thanks for inspiring me to do more than I thought I ever could!
I use mine all the time. I got a cordless one but it only came with one battery. I’m constantly cursing under my breath that I don’t have a back up battery. I’ve used it in many situations where a power cord would have been a real pain so I personally wouldn’t get a corded one. I can’t recommend a specific one. I think my dad broke the battery clip on mine (so the battery constantly falls out) and that really impairs my ability to think too highly of it. I do have another multi tool that is 20V and I like it a lot. (I’m doing a review on it in the next 10 days.)
Thanks! I will watch for that and finally just subscribed… don’t know why it took me so long. 🙂
I would stay away from the cordless multi-tools, they pull to many amps for the battery to last very long. I would recommend the Bosch MX25EC-21($129.00 on Amazon). If your doing remodeling, then this is the absolute best tool that you will ever add to your tool box. From cutting off door jams to cutting holes for electrical boxes, this tool is your Uncle Bob.
But then you have a cord. I love having a cordless one, I would just make sure to have a back up battery. Many times having the cord would not be a problem but those times that you have to be up on a ladder or in a situation where you have to be an acrobat to reach what you need to cut…that cord is the bane of your existence.
I agree. That is why I go with cordless. At 5’2″ there is VERY LITTLE that i do that I don’t need a ladder for. Cords are just a pain in the — when I am constantly on a ladder and they are getting hung up on it. Thank you for your input tho, I would just rather buy the extra battery and deal with the lack of power to have the convenience. I mostly do trim work and want a multi tool since I constantly make a mess of my walls when removing trim. Plus, since me doing all of these projects keeps me from asking my husband to do things, he is more than happy to buy me whatever I need to get the job done. LOL
The photos show the weight of the saw on the piece being cut off. Is that correct procedure?
Bob, the entire sheet is supported with sawhorses, plywood and then faom. There isn’t a piece that will fall away. I never cut full sheets without full support. With that said, you can easily change the direction the saw faces on your rail. I can’t safely reach across an entire 4′ sheet to rip a 7″ cut so I have it set up as is. You could change switch it up to your liking depending on your situation though. 🙂
Thanks for explaining! I’ve got to try it that way.
Wow! The Rip-Cut is even better than I expected. i didn’t think it was possible to smoothly glide the tee and my saw. Those 4×8 sheets are history and my cuts are better than the factory edges! I bought a sheet of foam too…Great Idea.
What is your set-up underneath? Is that foam you are cutting on?
I have two sawhorses, a sheet of plywood and a sheet of foam insulation supporting the whole sheet that I am cutting. There has been some debate on the use of foam insulation (health and cleanup) but this is the set up I’m currently working on.
Having worked at the big orange box lumber store for five years I can confirm that not ever employee can cut straight, nor can they read a tape measure. Add in the factor that the panel rip saw is not designed for a precise measurement and what you get is a total project failure. Plan to get the sheet goods cut down with a minimum of one or two cuts. I also agree that the Kreg Ripcut guide is a keeper, of course everything that Kreg makes in my book is a keeper.
‘Can’t even read a tape measure?” LOL
I’ve never met anyone that green at big orange but there sure are some that take more care than others. The whole 4×8 is hard to manage by myself but I do prefer to make my own cuts generally. It’s amazing how 1/8″ can make such a big difference.
I have just finished ordering one of these from Amazon for my husband. He’s been wanting one, but said they were too expensive. When he saw what you’ve listed for a price, he said
“Quick! Order me one!!!” So I have…thanks for the “heads up” on a reasonable price!
Anxiously awaiting mine!!
You are amazingly talented. What kreg tools would you recommend?
HI!
Does this replace a table saw? I’m wondering why you wouldn’t rip it on the table saw?
(Obviously if you don’t have a table saw- but if you do is there a reason for using a circular saw?)
Am I missing something?
Thanks!
You can do a lot with the RipCut but not everything a tablesaw can do. I use both. Ripping full sheets of lumber on a table saw is nearly impossible safely and without binding up your blade and burning your wood because it’s so hard to keep the 8′ sheet fed straight through. I use the RipCut to cut down a full sheet. If I need small pieces, I’ll use the RipCut strategically and then rip to size on my table saw.
Any ideas on how to cut an angle with the rip cut? I love this thing. Saved about $300 putting in laminate flooring. I almost bought a table saw.