There are lots of different ways to install your drawer fronts to cabinet drawers: mounting Brackets or drilling a larger hole in the front of the drawer to give your screw room to “slide” the drawer FRONT into a new position (and then you use a washer to keep the screw from pulling through the large hole). I usually don’t have washers or mounting brackets on hand nor do I like to rely on precise measurements for getting the drawer exactly where I want it. I like to see the front of the cabinet and drawer front and eyeball where I want it…so I generally use this method.
It’s probably the most basic. You put your Drawer Front on your Cabinet Drawer, and screw it in place.
The trick is getting the Drawer Front exactly where you want it and then having it stay put until you can get your screws into it. I use carpet tape. (Found in the carpeting isle of any home improvement store.)
Carpet tape is super strong double sided adhesive. I put a strip of tape at the top and bottom of the front of my drawer, line it up and then press it on.
If you can’t get your fingers in to open the drawer, a 5in1 tool comes in handy.
I use clamps to hold the Drawer Front in place while I drive in the screws.
I use pan head screws and put one in each corner. (Top and bottom to equal 4 screws even though this picture only shows one screw in the top corner.) You could add washers if the wood is soft and the screws sink.
The problem with this method is that you can not easily make minor adjustments to the drawer front. If it’s a little too high or needs to shift to the left…you have to remove the screws and TRY to get it adjusted and re-secured. It’s a pain if you don’t get it JUST RIGHT the first time.
I’ve used mounting brackets and they are nice when you need to move the drawer front slightly but I find the “carpet tape and eyeball method” to be easier and faster.
But that’s just me!
Andrea says
March 1, 2012 at 10:05 amOh, you are just so dang smart!
Mike says
March 1, 2012 at 10:26 amDo you leave the carpet tape sandwiched between the drawer and the front?
My OCD will never let me leave the tape, so I just use a little bit of tape, then clamp, then screw, then take it all apart and remove the tape. lining the screws back up with the holes and re-assembling usually isn’t too much of a pain, but it would be easier if I could get myself to just leave the tape sandwich.
Sandra says
March 1, 2012 at 12:41 pmYes I leave the tape in place. It would drive me crazy if it were visible but it is not and it doesn’t create a space. The front is flush against the drawer once it’s secured with screws.
Laura says
March 1, 2012 at 1:05 pmQuestion for you:
How far into the wood front you do need to go to have a strong attachment? Like if you have a 3/4 inch attached to 3/4 inch, that’s 1.5 inches….how long of a screw would you use, and is there a way to figure this easily?
Laura
Sandra says
March 1, 2012 at 5:23 pmThe thing is, once the handle goes on, it goes through the drawer FRONT and the drawer so you’ll be pulling against the drawer, not the drawer front. So, you just have to attach the drawer FRONT so it’ll stay put. I use 1″ SPAX pan head.
Laura says
March 2, 2012 at 8:12 pmThanks Sandra….the question I was asking was in my head (and I didn’t ask it really well!). I was thinking about making pocket holes, and how to figure out how long of a screw is needed. But I did research and found the Kreg Jig website; You’ve inspired me to stop trying to find cabinets and just go buy the jig and get making. Thanks! Your closet makeover is really awesome, and I’m going to make some cabinets of my own (but for my dining room!)
Laura
Brad says
July 17, 2013 at 7:30 pmDrill oversize holes in the drawer and use these screws with oversize heads. There is some wiggle-room for adjustment, but you’ll probably have to remove the carpet tape before final assembly to make adjustments.
The above screw is for 3/4″ drawer fronts with 1/2″ drawer material. Mcfeely’s has different lengths for different materials. Use appropriate length screws to avoid problems.