I got lots of questions about my Office Countertop after I posted that I built it out of Oak Flooring.
So, I created some sketch-ups to try to give you a better idea of how you can make all your dreams come true…if you’re dreaming of wood floor countertops that is!
*I’m purposely not giving you any surface dimensions because you have to build the countertop to fit your work space.
My work space happened to be T-shaped, you could do the same thing with a straight countertop, or L or X or + shaped for that matter!
1. Create a plywood base
- Cut a plywood base the shape of your countertop but subtract the thickness of your finish material from the desired final width. (I used 3/4″ flooring for my countertops so I made my plywood base 3/4″ narrower!) Why? Because you are going to put a “face” on your countertop to make it look thicker, which will add to the total width.
- Use two layers of plywood to create a strong base. If you have seams, stagger your second layer so you’re seams do not end up in the same place. Screw both layers together to secure the seams.
- If the ends of your countertop are going to be exposed, do the same “adjustment” for the length. (My countertop goes wall to wall so the ends don’t matter)
2. Nail on your countertop material!
*Now, obviously you don’t have to use flooring. I did because unfinished 3/4″ Oak flooring was cheaper than buying regular 3/4″ Oak from the lumber store. Plus, the tongue and groove helped secure each row together without using glue and clamps which I would have done had I used regular wood.
***If you do use flooring, you’ll have to use a table saw to rip 45* angles onto some of your wood because the bottom of the flooring is not flat (it usually has ridges) and you will not be able to do a butt joint!
***If you do not have a table saw or want to rip a 45* angle (I have to admit, it is pretty hard on the motor and a bit scary if you are not experienced!) I would recommend using regular planks of wood and doing butt joints.
- I started on the front! I wanted my countertop to appear to be 1 1/2″ thick so I took some of my wood and ripped 45* angles on my table saw. I cut the entire first row like this
- Then I ripped some more wood at 45* angles and cut them to 1 1/2″ wide for the fronts. (My wood was wide enough to get 2 strips out of each plank so I mitered both sides before I cut it to width)
- The corner pieces had to be mitered at 45* angles for the corners as well as the top. I used my miter saw for the end cuts.
- Nail everything into place. I just nailed right through the top since it was unfinished wood. Wood putty in all the nail holes, cracks and corners. The whole thing had to have a good sanding anyway.
- (Make sure you use the proper length nail! I didn’t calculate for that and had to go back after I was finished and pound UP a few nails from the bottom. Don’t want to snag your knees…!)
- Finish! I used (ebony tinted) Tung oil (which I LOVE but make sure you use a RESPIRATOR and the proper gloves if you go that route.)
I used a nice cabinet grade plywood that I found for a decent price that had a thick veneer. Cut it to size, butt jointed a face on the front to make it look thick and finished it with tung oil.Much easier, and cheaper. Not quite as dramatic but cool enough if the flooring method seems like it’s not “the dream” you thought it would be!There’s always a way to get the look you want…you just have to find the right way for you!
Tags: Building Stuff, DIY, Tutorial